🏔️ Kusatsu Onsen Day 1 - Exploring Yubatake, Hot Spring Town & Traditional Ryokan【September 2023】

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Kusatsu Onsen Day 1 - Exploring Yubatake, Hot Spring Town & Traditional Ryokan

On September 1st, 2023, my journey to Kusatsu Onsen, one of Japan’s three most famous hot springs, began. This first day was filled with the breathtaking Yubatake (hot spring source), the charm of the traditional hot spring town, delicious local cuisine, and luxurious time at a traditional ryokan.

Departure to Arrival

Car seat and bag on the way to Kusatsu Onsen ▲ Car seat and bag on the way to Kusatsu Onsen Stopping at a highway service area before departure

We left early in the morning and traveled to Kusatsu Onsen via highway. Along the way, we took breaks at service areas while making our way deep into Gunma Prefecture’s mountainous region.

Busy food court inside the highway service area with udon restaurant sign ▲ Busy food court inside the highway service area with udon restaurant sign Inside the service area

Souvenir shop packed with local snacks and goods at the service area ▲ Souvenir shop packed with local snacks and goods at the service area Well-stocked souvenir corner

Starbucks Coffee standalone store surrounded by greenery at the service area ▲ Starbucks Coffee standalone store surrounded by greenery at the service area Taking a break at the service area Starbucks

Kamisato Service Area building on the Kan-Etsu Expressway ▲ Kamisato Service Area building on the Kan-Etsu Expressway View from the highway

Arriving at Kusatsu Onsen

Traditional wooden ryokan buildings and stone steps at the entrance of Kusatsu Onsen town ▲ Traditional wooden ryokan buildings and stone steps at the entrance of Kusatsu Onsen town Arrived at Kusatsu Onsen town. Traditional hot spring ryokans line the streets

In the afternoon, we finally arrived at Kusatsu Onsen! The hot spring town nestled in the mountains presented a beautiful landscape that heightened our expectations.

Rustic wooden ryokan and souvenir shops lining the cobblestone Kusatsu street ▲ Rustic wooden ryokan and souvenir shops lining the cobblestone Kusatsu street The atmospheric streets of the hot spring town

The Magnificent Yubatake

When it comes to Kusatsu Onsen, nothing beats the “Yubatake” (hot spring source field)! I was moved by the overwhelming scale that truly befits one of Japan’s three most famous hot springs.

Yubatake Panorama ▲ Yubatake Panorama Panoramic view of Yubatake, the symbol of Kusatsu Onsen

Yubatake Close-up ▲ Yubatake Close-up Close-up of the flowing hot spring water at Yubatake

The Yubatake, where 32,300 liters of hot spring water gush out every minute, is truly the heart of Kusatsu Onsen. The dancing yu-no-hana (hot spring flowers) could be watched for hours without getting tired.

Strolling Through the Atmospheric Town

Old-fashioned izakaya bar interior with sake bottles and a blackboard menu in Kusatsu ▲ Old-fashioned izakaya bar interior with sake bottles and a blackboard menu in Kusatsu Interior of a charming coffee shop

Antique wooden furnishings inside the atmospheric old shop in Kusatsu Onsen ▲ Antique wooden furnishings inside the atmospheric old shop in Kusatsu Onsen Shop interior with old-fashioned atmosphere

Antique Tools Display ▲ Antique Tools Display Old tools are displayed inside the shop

While exploring the hot spring town, I discovered a traditional coffee shop. Inside, old folk tools were displayed, allowing me to feel the history of Kusatsu.

Exquisite Local Cuisine

Highball and Dish 1 ▲ Highball and Dish 1 Dewar’s highball with delicious food

Maitake Tempura ▲ Maitake Tempura Gunma specialty - maitake mushroom tempura

Tempura Details ▲ Tempura Details Crispy maitake tempura - absolutely delicious!

For lunch, we visited a popular local izakaya. The tempura made with Gunma Prefecture’s maitake mushrooms was exquisite with its crispy texture and deep flavor! It paired perfectly with the highball.

Nature Walk

Riverside Scenery 1 ▲ Riverside Scenery 1 Riverside at the foot of Mount Kusatsu-Shirane

Riverside Scenery 2 ▲ Riverside Scenery 2 Beautiful volcanic riverside landscape

Riverside Scenery 3 ▲ Riverside Scenery 3 Artistic landscape created by nature

River water flow

After exploring around Yubatake, we visited the riverside at the foot of Mount Kusatsu-Shirane. The unique landscape created by volcanic terrain is truly a work of natural art.

Checking into the Ryokan

Traditional izakaya storefront with red lanterns and wooden signboard in Kusatsu ▲ Traditional izakaya storefront with red lanterns and wooden signboard in Kusatsu The ryokan where we stayed

In the evening, we checked into the ryokan where we’d spend the night. It’s a building with the traditional charm typical of Kusatsu Onsen.

Japanese tatami guest room with low table and TV at Kusatsu Onsen ryokan ▲ Japanese tatami guest room with low table and TV at Kusatsu Onsen ryokan Calm Japanese-style guest room

Ryokan room entrance hallway looking into the Japanese-style guest room ▲ Ryokan room entrance hallway looking into the Japanese-style guest room Interior view of the guest room from the entrance

Blue mountain silhouettes of the Kusatsu-Shirane range viewed from the ryokan window ▲ Blue mountain silhouettes of the Kusatsu-Shirane range viewed from the ryokan window Beautiful mountain range visible from the guest room

The guest room was a traditional Japanese-style room with a panoramic view of Kusatsu’s beautiful mountains from the window. We immediately changed into yukata and fully enjoyed the hot spring atmosphere!

Luxurious Dinner at the Ryokan

Dinner Menu ▲ Dinner Menu Dinner menu at Kusatsu Onsen Hotel Resort

Appetizers ▲ Appetizers Beautifully presented appetizers

Hot Spring Egg Dish ▲ Hot Spring Egg Dish Hot spring egg dish unique to this area

Beer and Small Dishes ▲ Beer and Small Dishes Draft beer with seasonal small dishes

Dessert ▲ Dessert Elegant dessert to conclude the meal

Dinner scene Joushu pig. This is amazing taste.

Dinner was the ryokan’s specialty kaiseki cuisine. Every dish made with abundant local ingredients was exquisite. The dishes using hot spring eggs were particularly unique to Kusatsu’s distinctive flavors.

Evening Yubatake Illumination

Night Yubatake 1 ▲ Night Yubatake 1 Beautifully illuminated Yubatake

Night Yubatake 2 ▲ Night Yubatake 2 Yubatake creates a mystical atmosphere at night

Night Yubatake 3 ▲ Night Yubatake 3 Yubatake illuminated in blue light

Night Yubatake 4 ▲ Night Yubatake 4 Beautiful spectacle woven by steam and light

Night illumination

Night Yubatake 5 ▲ Night Yubatake 5 Hot spring flow and illumination

Night Yubatake 6 ▲ Night Yubatake 6 Yubatake’s wooden walkways also illuminated

Night Hot Spring Town ▲ Night Hot Spring Town The entire hot spring town mystically illuminated

At night, Yubatake is beautifully illuminated, showing a completely different mystical expression from during the day. The steam illuminated in blue light was truly spectacular! Many tourists were enjoying taking commemorative photos.

Evening Hot Spring Town Stroll

Night Ryokan ▲ Night Ryokan Illuminated Goza-no-Yu

Night Temple ▲ Night Temple Kusatsu Sankosen-ji Temple at night

After viewing the illumination, we strolled through the hot spring town at night. With its different atmosphere from daytime, we fully enjoyed the unique pleasures of a hot spring town at night.

Relaxing at the Library Corner

Ryokan library lounge with manga-lined shelves and comfortable leather armchairs ▲ Ryokan library lounge with manga-lined shelves and comfortable leather armchairs Well-equipped library corner at the ryokan

The ryokan had a well-stocked library corner, perfect for relaxation time after warming up in the hot springs.

Late Night Snacks

Night Snack 1 ▲ Night Snack 1 Rice balls wrapped in bamboo leaves

Night Snack 2 ▲ Night Snack 2 Dessert-like sweet treats

Night Snack 3 ▲ Night Snack 3 Special dish made with hot spring water

For a late-night snack, we enjoyed local cuisine-style rice balls wrapped in bamboo leaves and sweet treats. This is the kind of luxury unique to hot spring travel.

End of Day 1

Kusatsu Yubatake glowing with turquoise hot spring water and wooden structures at night ▲ Kusatsu Yubatake glowing with turquoise hot spring water and wooden structures at night Yubatake at the end of the day

At the end of the day, we visited Yubatake once more. The quiet Yubatake at night had a beauty of tranquility different from the daytime bustle.

Day 1 Summary

The first day of Kusatsu Onsen exceeded all expectations:

🌟 Highlights:

  • Overwhelming beauty of Yubatake - Both day and night illumination
  • Gunma specialty maitake tempura - Exquisite crispy texture
  • Charm of the hot spring town - Traditional atmosphere
  • Ryokan kaiseki cuisine - Deliciousness of local ingredients
  • Mystical night scenery - Illuminated Yubatake

Tomorrow we plan to enjoy more hot springs at Otaki-no-Yu and savor even more local cuisine!


📍 Access: Kan-Etsu Expressway Shibukawa Ikaho IC → via National Routes 17 & 353, about 1 hour
🏨 Accommodation: Kusatsu Onsen Hotel Resort
⭐ Recommendation Level: ★★★★★

➡️ Day 2 Article Here

PR: Contains a Rakuten Travel affiliate link.

▶ Check Kusatsu Onsen Hotel Resort availability and rates on Rakuten Travel

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