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Kusatsu Onsen Day 1 - Exploring Yubatake, Hot Spring Town & Traditional Ryokan
On September 1st, 2023, my journey to Kusatsu Onsen, one of Japan’s three most famous hot springs, began. This first day was filled with the breathtaking Yubatake (hot spring source), the charm of the traditional hot spring town, delicious local cuisine, and luxurious time at a traditional ryokan.
Departure to Arrival
▲ Car seat and bag on the way to Kusatsu Onsen
Stopping at a highway service area before departure
We left early in the morning and traveled to Kusatsu Onsen via highway. Along the way, we took breaks at service areas while making our way deep into Gunma Prefecture’s mountainous region.
▲ Busy food court inside the highway service area with udon restaurant sign
Inside the service area
▲ Souvenir shop packed with local snacks and goods at the service area
Well-stocked souvenir corner
▲ Starbucks Coffee standalone store surrounded by greenery at the service area
Taking a break at the service area Starbucks
▲ Kamisato Service Area building on the Kan-Etsu Expressway
View from the highway
Arriving at Kusatsu Onsen
▲ Traditional wooden ryokan buildings and stone steps at the entrance of Kusatsu Onsen town
Arrived at Kusatsu Onsen town. Traditional hot spring ryokans line the streets
In the afternoon, we finally arrived at Kusatsu Onsen! The hot spring town nestled in the mountains presented a beautiful landscape that heightened our expectations.
▲ Rustic wooden ryokan and souvenir shops lining the cobblestone Kusatsu street
The atmospheric streets of the hot spring town
The Magnificent Yubatake
When it comes to Kusatsu Onsen, nothing beats the “Yubatake” (hot spring source field)! I was moved by the overwhelming scale that truly befits one of Japan’s three most famous hot springs.
▲ Yubatake Panorama
Panoramic view of Yubatake, the symbol of Kusatsu Onsen
▲ Yubatake Close-up
Close-up of the flowing hot spring water at Yubatake
The Yubatake, where 32,300 liters of hot spring water gush out every minute, is truly the heart of Kusatsu Onsen. The dancing yu-no-hana (hot spring flowers) could be watched for hours without getting tired.
Strolling Through the Atmospheric Town
▲ Old-fashioned izakaya bar interior with sake bottles and a blackboard menu in Kusatsu
Interior of a charming coffee shop
▲ Antique wooden furnishings inside the atmospheric old shop in Kusatsu Onsen
Shop interior with old-fashioned atmosphere
▲ Antique Tools Display
Old tools are displayed inside the shop
While exploring the hot spring town, I discovered a traditional coffee shop. Inside, old folk tools were displayed, allowing me to feel the history of Kusatsu.
Exquisite Local Cuisine
▲ Highball and Dish 1
Dewar’s highball with delicious food
▲ Maitake Tempura
Gunma specialty - maitake mushroom tempura
▲ Tempura Details
Crispy maitake tempura - absolutely delicious!
For lunch, we visited a popular local izakaya. The tempura made with Gunma Prefecture’s maitake mushrooms was exquisite with its crispy texture and deep flavor! It paired perfectly with the highball.
Nature Walk
▲ Riverside Scenery 1
Riverside at the foot of Mount Kusatsu-Shirane
▲ Riverside Scenery 2
Beautiful volcanic riverside landscape
▲ Riverside Scenery 3
Artistic landscape created by nature
River water flow
After exploring around Yubatake, we visited the riverside at the foot of Mount Kusatsu-Shirane. The unique landscape created by volcanic terrain is truly a work of natural art.
Checking into the Ryokan
▲ Traditional izakaya storefront with red lanterns and wooden signboard in Kusatsu
The ryokan where we stayed
In the evening, we checked into the ryokan where we’d spend the night. It’s a building with the traditional charm typical of Kusatsu Onsen.
▲ Japanese tatami guest room with low table and TV at Kusatsu Onsen ryokan
Calm Japanese-style guest room
▲ Ryokan room entrance hallway looking into the Japanese-style guest room
Interior view of the guest room from the entrance
▲ Blue mountain silhouettes of the Kusatsu-Shirane range viewed from the ryokan window
Beautiful mountain range visible from the guest room
The guest room was a traditional Japanese-style room with a panoramic view of Kusatsu’s beautiful mountains from the window. We immediately changed into yukata and fully enjoyed the hot spring atmosphere!
Luxurious Dinner at the Ryokan
▲ Dinner Menu
Dinner menu at Kusatsu Onsen Hotel Resort
▲ Appetizers
Beautifully presented appetizers
▲ Hot Spring Egg Dish
Hot spring egg dish unique to this area
▲ Beer and Small Dishes
Draft beer with seasonal small dishes
▲ Dessert
Elegant dessert to conclude the meal
Dinner scene Joushu pig. This is amazing taste.
Dinner was the ryokan’s specialty kaiseki cuisine. Every dish made with abundant local ingredients was exquisite. The dishes using hot spring eggs were particularly unique to Kusatsu’s distinctive flavors.
Evening Yubatake Illumination
▲ Night Yubatake 1
Beautifully illuminated Yubatake
▲ Night Yubatake 2
Yubatake creates a mystical atmosphere at night
▲ Night Yubatake 3
Yubatake illuminated in blue light
▲ Night Yubatake 4
Beautiful spectacle woven by steam and light
Night illumination
▲ Night Yubatake 5
Hot spring flow and illumination
▲ Night Yubatake 6
Yubatake’s wooden walkways also illuminated
▲ Night Hot Spring Town
The entire hot spring town mystically illuminated
At night, Yubatake is beautifully illuminated, showing a completely different mystical expression from during the day. The steam illuminated in blue light was truly spectacular! Many tourists were enjoying taking commemorative photos.
Evening Hot Spring Town Stroll
▲ Night Ryokan
Illuminated Goza-no-Yu
▲ Night Temple
Kusatsu Sankosen-ji Temple at night
After viewing the illumination, we strolled through the hot spring town at night. With its different atmosphere from daytime, we fully enjoyed the unique pleasures of a hot spring town at night.
Relaxing at the Library Corner
▲ Ryokan library lounge with manga-lined shelves and comfortable leather armchairs
Well-equipped library corner at the ryokan
The ryokan had a well-stocked library corner, perfect for relaxation time after warming up in the hot springs.
Late Night Snacks
▲ Night Snack 1
Rice balls wrapped in bamboo leaves
▲ Night Snack 2
Dessert-like sweet treats
▲ Night Snack 3
Special dish made with hot spring water
For a late-night snack, we enjoyed local cuisine-style rice balls wrapped in bamboo leaves and sweet treats. This is the kind of luxury unique to hot spring travel.
End of Day 1
▲ Kusatsu Yubatake glowing with turquoise hot spring water and wooden structures at night
Yubatake at the end of the day
At the end of the day, we visited Yubatake once more. The quiet Yubatake at night had a beauty of tranquility different from the daytime bustle.
Day 1 Summary
The first day of Kusatsu Onsen exceeded all expectations:
🌟 Highlights:
- Overwhelming beauty of Yubatake - Both day and night illumination
- Gunma specialty maitake tempura - Exquisite crispy texture
- Charm of the hot spring town - Traditional atmosphere
- Ryokan kaiseki cuisine - Deliciousness of local ingredients
- Mystical night scenery - Illuminated Yubatake
Tomorrow we plan to enjoy more hot springs at Otaki-no-Yu and savor even more local cuisine!
📍 Access: Kan-Etsu Expressway Shibukawa Ikaho IC → via National Routes 17 & 353, about 1 hour
🏨 Accommodation: Kusatsu Onsen Hotel Resort
⭐ Recommendation Level: ★★★★★
PR: Contains a Rakuten Travel affiliate link.
▶ Check Kusatsu Onsen Hotel Resort availability and rates on Rakuten Travel
