Okutama Hiking Trip: Tengu Falls, Aya Falls & Seoto-no-Yu Onsen (Oct 2023)

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“Two waterfalls, a ridge, and a hot spring.” The plan looked perfect from the start. October 7, 2023: a day hike in the Okutama hills west of Tokyo—starting at Chisoku bus stop, visiting Tengu Falls (天狗滝) and Aya Falls (綾滝), crossing the mountain ridge, and ending at Seoto-no-Yu Spa in the Akikawa valley.


Quick Facts

  • Date: October 7, 2023 (day trip)
  • Location: Hinohara Village / Akiruno City, Nishitama District, Tokyo
  • Route: Chisoku Bus Stop → Tengu Falls → Aya Falls → Ridge → Mt. Koumyo → Jurigi → Seoto-no-Yu Spa
  • Hiking time: Approx. 5 hours (including rest)
  • Difficulty: Intermediate (steep ascent and descent)
  • Weather: Clear blue sky (early October)
  • Cost (per person): Train + bus approx. ¥1,500 / Hot spring approx. ¥1,000 / Food approx. ¥1,000 → Total approx. ¥3,500

Getting to the Start: Musashi-Itsukaichi Station

From Shinjuku, take the JR Chuo Line to Tachikawa, then the JR Itsukaichi Line to Musashi-Itsukaichi Station. From there, board the Nishi-Tokyo Bus heading for Chisoku (千足)—about 30 minutes to the trailhead.

▼ The Nishi-Tokyo Bus (西東京バス) route map. The Musashi-Itsukaichi area has several bus lines serving Tominomori, Chisoku, Jurigi, and more 11:02 — Shot on the bus. So many lines serve this area that I double-checked the destination before boarding.

The Nishi-Tokyo Bus (西東京バス) route map. The Musashi-Itsukaichi area has several bus lines serving Tominomori, Chisoku, Jurigi, and more


Start of the Hike: Chisoku Bus Stop

Step off the bus and a trailhead sign appears immediately: “Kanizumi Fureai Trail / Tengu Falls 1.0km / Aya Falls 1.7km.” This is the entrance to the waterfall trail.

▼ The trailhead sign: “Kanizumi Nature Trail / Tengu Falls 1.0km / Aya Falls 1.7km.” Right beside the Chisoku bus stop 12:00 — Found this sign right after stepping off the bus. Hike officially begins here.

The trailhead sign: “Kanizumi Nature Trail / Tengu Falls 1.0km / Aya Falls 1.7km.” Right beside the Chisoku bus stop

Under a blue sky with the mountains pressing in on both sides, we set off.

▼ Approaching the trailhead. The path narrows as the forest begins 12:02 — The paved village road gives way to trail. The air turned noticeably cooler right here.

Approaching the trailhead. The path narrows as the forest begins

▼ The first stretch: a paved lane and mountain scenery. The forest-covered slopes loom directly ahead 12:11 — About ten minutes in. Looking back, the contrast between the village and the blue sky was worth a photo.

The first stretch: a paved lane and mountain scenery. The forest-covered slopes loom directly ahead

▼ Exposed tree roots crossing the mountain trail. Footing requires care from the start 12:12 — Roots already crossing the path this early—a preview of the steeper climb ahead.

Exposed tree roots crossing the mountain trail. Footing requires care from the start

▼ Stream-side rock and moss. The cool, humid air of the mountain valley 12:15 — Fifteen minutes in and the sound of the stream was already close.

Stream-side rock and moss. The cool, humid air of the mountain valley

▼ Dappled light through the trees. A mix of cedar and broadleaf forest 12:18 — Cedar plantation mixed with broadleaf trees, brighter than expected under the canopy.

Dappled light through the trees. A mix of cedar and broadleaf forest

▼ Stones and tree roots on the trail. The sound of the stream accompanies every step 12:20 — Almost at Tengu Falls now—the stream noise had grown noticeably louder.

Stones and tree roots on the trail. The sound of the stream accompanies every step


Tengu Falls (天狗滝)

About 20 minutes from the bus stop, a wooden sign reading “天狗滝 (Tengu Falls)” appears in a clearing. Behind it, two cascades drop down the rock face.

▼ The wooden “Tengu Falls” sign. The white flow of the waterfall is visible behind it through the trees 12:24 — Right on schedule, about 20 minutes in. The white flow was already visible behind the sign.

The wooden “Tengu Falls” sign. The white flow of the waterfall is visible behind it through the trees

Looking straight up from directly below: a two-stage waterfall, the rock face scraped white by the water, green moss and plants clinging to both sides. The sound was louder than expected, and we could get close enough to feel the spray.

▼ Tengu Falls from directly beneath. Water drops in two stages down polished rock. Viewed from above, the flow looks like a single straight line 12:27 — Close enough to the pool that spray hit my face for this shot.

Tengu Falls from directly beneath. Water drops in two stages down polished rock. Viewed from above, the flow looks like a single straight line


On to Aya Falls (綾滝)

Leaving Tengu Falls, we reached the next fork: “Tengu Falls / Chisoku 0.2km ← / → Aya Falls / Tsuzuraiwa 0.5km.” Turning right toward Aya Falls.

▼ Fork sign: “Tengu Falls / Chisoku 0.2km” and “Aya Falls / Tsuzuraiwa 0.5km.” Rocky terrain beside the stream 12:34 — About 7 minutes from Tengu Falls. Aya Falls was just a bit further from here.

Fork sign: “Tengu Falls / Chisoku 0.2km” and “Aya Falls / Tsuzuraiwa 0.5km.” Rocky terrain beside the stream

Pushing through the cedar forest, past roots and rocks, with the stream audible nearby.

▼ A steep cedar forest path. Tree roots and rocks intertwined, making each step deliberate 12:37 — Just 3 minutes past the fork and the footing already got rougher. The pace slowed from here.

A steep cedar forest path. Tree roots and rocks intertwined, making each step deliberate

Another junction: “Tsuzuraiwa (馬頭刈山 / Mt. Mazukari),” “Tengu Falls / Chisoku,” and “Aya Falls (lower)"—three directions.

▼ Junction sign: Tsuzuraiwa (Mt. Mazukari) 0.6km / Tengu Falls & Chisoku 1.1km / Aya Falls (lower). The final stretch to Aya Falls 12:47 — Reached the three-way junction and took the turn toward Aya Falls.

Junction sign: Tsuzuraiwa (Mt. Mazukari) 0.6km / Tengu Falls & Chisoku 1.1km / Aya Falls (lower). The final stretch to Aya Falls

And there it was—Aya Falls.

A long, thin curtain of white falling down a moss-covered cliff. Where Tengu Falls is powerful and broad, Aya Falls is slender and elegant—like a bolt of white cloth hung against green and grey rock. The colour contrast between the bright moss, dark stone, and white water made it the more visually striking of the two.

▼ Aya Falls. A long, slender white flow against a moss-covered cliff face. The green and grey of the rock frame the waterfall perfectly 12:48 — Just a minute past the junction. The long, thin flow was a striking contrast to Tengu Falls.

Aya Falls. A long, slender white flow against a moss-covered cliff face. The green and grey of the rock frame the waterfall perfectly

▼ The base of Aya Falls, with log seating nearby. A quiet, enclosed space surrounded by rock and moss 12:46 — Found log seating right by the falls and took a short break listening to the water.

The base of Aya Falls, with log seating nearby. A quiet, enclosed space surrounded by rock and moss


The Ridge Climb: Tsuzuraiwa and Beyond

Past Aya Falls, the trail turns upward—steeply. This is where the hike becomes a real climb.

▼ A moss-covered stump and thin cedar trunks. Many fallen trees suggest typhoon damage. The planted forest becomes wilder here 12:54 — 6 minutes from Aya Falls, doubling back and climbing. The fallen trees hinted at the previous year’s typhoon damage.

A moss-covered stump and thin cedar trunks. Many fallen trees suggest typhoon damage. The planted forest becomes wilder here

▼ The steep ridgeline path. Rock and soil mixed, with no easy footing 12:56 — This is where the real climb starts. Breathing got noticeably harder right about here.

The steep ridgeline path. Rock and soil mixed, with no easy footing

▼ A sharp ascent through mixed broadleaf and cedar forest. Loose stones make every step deliberate 13:09 — 13 minutes into the climb. The loose stones were slippery enough to slow the pace here.

A sharp ascent through mixed broadleaf and cedar forest. Loose stones make every step deliberate


Kanto Fureai Trail: Ridge Walking

At the top of the long climb, a major trail signpost appeared. The Kanto Fureai Trail: “Mt. Odake 3.2km / Fujimidai 0.8km” in one direction, “Mt. Mazukari 2.4km / Jurigi 6.5km” in the other.

▼ The Kanto Fureai Trail signpost. “Mt. Odake 3.2km / Fujimidai 0.8km” and “Mt. Mazukari 2.4km / Jurigi 6.5km” (Tokyo Metropolitan)—the main ridge junction 13:21 — Reached the main ridge right after the steep climb. The word “Jurigi” finally showed up on a sign.

The Kanto Fureai Trail signpost. “Mt. Odake 3.2km / Fujimidai 0.8km” and “Mt. Mazukari 2.4km / Jurigi 6.5km” (Tokyo Metropolitan)—the main ridge junction

▼ A steep rocky slope with stacked-stone walls. The long climb continues 13:22 — Even right after joining the ridge, the climbing wasn’t over yet.

A steep rocky slope with stacked-stone walls. The long climb continues

▼ On the ridge. Mountain peaks begin appearing between the trees 13:24 — Surrounding ridgelines started flickering into view between the trees—the first hint of the view to come.

On the ridge. Mountain peaks begin appearing between the trees

▼ Scrambling over large rocks on the steep ridge. Demanding but the sky is close 13:26 — Scrambling up a boulder using both hands and feet. One of the more physical moments of the day.

Scrambling over large rocks on the steep ridge. Demanding but the sky is close

▼ Another section of steep ridgeline. Not a trail to walk carelessly—but the elevation gain is noticeable 13:26 — Taken moments after the last rock scramble, pushed straight through without looking back.

Another section of steep ridgeline. Not a trail to walk carelessly—but the elevation gain is noticeable

▼ A viewpoint on the ridge. The distant mountains are visible through the trees 13:29 — Past the rocks, the view finally opened up. Took a breath and looked out over the ridgelines.

A viewpoint on the ridge. The distant mountains are visible through the trees


Fujimidai Area: The Mountain View

Near Fujimidai (富士見台), the trees thinned and a panoramic view opened up. Layer upon layer of forested ridges—the Okutama and Akikawa hills stretching into the distance under a blue sky with white clouds. October air was clear, and the mountain silhouettes were sharp and deep.

▼ The view from near Fujimidai. Multiple ridges of the Okutama-Akikawa area layered into the distance under a blue sky with white clouds. One of the best moments of the hike 13:45 — Over an hour and a half in, the best view of the day finally arrived. Made every step of the climb feel worth it.

The view from near Fujimidai. Multiple ridges of the Okutama-Akikawa area layered into the distance under a blue sky with white clouds. One of the best moments of the hike


The Ridge to Mt. Koumyo and the Descent

Continuing along the ridge, we reached the Tsuruashiyama / Mt. Odake / Izusawa junction, then chose the route toward Mt. Koumyo (高明山) and the descent toward Seoto-no-Yu.

▼ Junction sign: “Mt. Tsuruashi / Mt. Odake” → “Izusawa / Wadamukai Bus Stop” / “Mt. Komyo / Mt. Mazukari.” Here we chose the descent toward Seoto-no-Yu 14:27 — More than 40 minutes of ridge walking past Fujimidai. Locked in the direction toward Mt. Koumyo and Mt. Mazukari here.

Junction sign: “Mt. Tsuruashi / Mt. Odake” → “Izusawa / Wadamukai Bus Stop” / “Mt. Komyo / Mt. Mazukari.” Here we chose the descent toward Seoto-no-Yu

▼ Narrow ridge path. Fallen leaves muffle the footsteps. The forest is quieter here 14:29 — A thick carpet of fallen leaves muffled every footstep here—strangely calming.

Narrow ridge path. Fallen leaves muffle the footsteps. The forest is quieter here

▼ Ridge walk continues. Steep slopes fall away on both sides of the narrow crest 14:40 — A knife-edge ridge with steep drops on both sides. Great views, but footing needed full attention.

Ridge walk continues. Steep slopes fall away on both sides of the narrow crest

Emerging from a section of cedar plantation, a small stone monument stood on a mossy stone platform: “高明神社跡 (Ruins of Komyo Shrine).” Nothing else marked the spot—just the inscription and the stones, surrounded by deep, quiet forest.

▼ The “Koumyo Shrine Ruins” stone monument on a mossy platform. A quiet historical site deep in the forest 14:51 — About 3 hours in. Reached this silent, empty ruin and took a slightly longer break here.

The “Koumyo Shrine Ruins” stone monument on a mossy platform. A quiet historical site deep in the forest


Descent to Seoto-no-Yu

Past the shrine ruins, the key junction appeared: “Mt. Mazukari / Mt. Koumyo ← / → Akikawa Valley Seoto-no-Yu Spa.” We turned toward the onsen.

▼ Junction sign: “Mt. Mazukari / Mt. Komyo” (left) and “Akikawa Valley Seoto-no-Yu Spa” (right). The hot spring is finally pointing the way 15:26 — 35 minutes past the shrine ruins. “Seoto-no-Yu” finally appeared on a sign, and the goal started to feel real.

Junction sign: “Mt. Mazukari / Mt. Komyo” (left) and “Akikawa Valley Seoto-no-Yu Spa” (right). The hot spring is finally pointing the way

On the descent, I picked up a fallen branch to use as a makeshift walking stick. Five hours in, knees start to appreciate the help.

▼ Holding a found branch as a walking stick. After five hours of hiking, the knees ask for anything that helps on the steep descent 15:41 — My knees were starting to complain, so I grabbed a decent-looking branch as an improvised cane. It helped more than expected.

Holding a found branch as a walking stick. After five hours of hiking, the knees ask for anything that helps on the steep descent

▼ A cedar forest descent path. Deep forest in the late afternoon light 15:43 — Pace steadied once I had the stick. Walked on through the dim cedar forest without much trouble.

A cedar forest descent path. Deep forest in the late afternoon light

▼ Moss and fallen leaves on the mountain path. The steep decline requires consistent attention to footing 15:46 — Steeper than expected, and this was the toughest stretch on the knees all day.

Moss and fallen leaves on the mountain path. The steep decline requires consistent attention to footing

Then a noticeboard appeared: “The Jurigi Bus Stop (十里木バス停) is an 8-minute walk from here.”

▼ Bus information board near the end of the descent: “Jurigi Bus Stop is an 8-minute walk. Please use the buses listed below.” With timetable attached 16:05 — About 4 hours in, and finally back at village level. Seeing this board was a relief.

Bus information board near the end of the descent: “Jurigi Bus Stop is an 8-minute walk. Please use the buses listed below.” With timetable attached


Seoto-no-Yu

Seoto-no-Yu (秋川渓谷 瀬音の湯)—the day-trip onsen at the end of the trail. The outdoor bath overlooks the Akikawa valley, and the alkaline spring water turns the skin noticeably smooth.

After bathing, I bought a beer from the lobby shop and sat outside. Looking toward the mountains and river while the muscles slowly stopped being sore—that’s what five hours of walking earns.

▼ The lounge at Seoto-no-Yu. Large windows look out over the greenery of the Akikawa valley. Comfortable chairs, warm wooden interior 17:14 — Made it to the lounge after bathing and finally sat still.

The lounge at Seoto-no-Yu. Large windows look out over the greenery of the Akikawa valley. Comfortable chairs, warm wooden interior

▼ An empty plastic beer cup after the bath. The cup says everything about how much it was needed 17:01 — Bought right after bathing and half gone before I remembered to take the photo.

An empty plastic beer cup after the bath. The cup says everything about how much it was needed

▼ Kirin Hyoketsu (Sicilian Lemon) canned drink and snacks on an outdoor table. The maple-pattern table surface is appropriately autumn-themed 17:32 — Switched to a lemon sour for round two. The maple-leaf table pattern fit the season nicely.

Kirin Hyoketsu (Sicilian Lemon) canned drink and snacks on an outdoor table. The maple-pattern table surface is appropriately autumn-themed


Summary

ItemDetails
DateOctober 7, 2023
RouteChisoku → Tengu Falls → Aya Falls → Ridge → Mt. Koumyo → Jurigi → Seoto-no-Yu
Hiking timeApprox. 5 hours
DifficultyIntermediate (steep ascent and descent)
AccessNishi-Tokyo Bus from Musashi-Itsukaichi Station to Chisoku (~30 min)
After the hikeSeoto-no-Yu day onsen (Akikawa valley, 8 min from Jurigi bus stop)
CostTransport + onsen + food approx. ¥3,500 per person
Best seasonOctober–November (autumn foliage), April–May (fresh green)
NoteBus frequency is low. Check the return timetable before departing

Two waterfalls with completely different characters, a long ridge with an outstanding view, a shrine ruin in the middle of the forest, and a hot spring at the end. For a Tokyo-based day hike, this route covers a remarkable amount of ground. If someone asks for a day hike recommendation that isn’t just Mt. Takao, I’d point here.



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